Gus and Ida Lazzerini opened this northern Italian restaurant in 1952 in what was then a heavily industriali neighborhood rich with printing companies and paper salesmen.  They passed control to their son-in-law Francesco Nardini in 1980, when the locals were mostly photographers and art dealers.  The restaurant is now in its third generation and is operated by Francesco's sons GianCarlo and Guido, who serve the same family-style Italian fare in a neighborhood now dominated by condominiums and warehouse lofts.  The restaurant, with its nautical-themed interior, still looks much the same as it did back in the 1950's, and its tin ceiling dates back to 1893.